We always recommend testing for radon gas contamination in homes as it is a significant health risk if levels are elevated. For sure you will not get accurate reading a gutted house, but presumably you aren’t leaving it like that. Are you in a high risk area? You can see here for radon gas maps to see if you’re in a high risk area. Either you could finish the upstairs and then test it, or, just run with the assumption that you may have it and take the pretty affordable steps ahead of time just in case, read more here –
How to remove radon gas from basements and crawl spaces
Does the house have a basement or is it a crawl space? And what is the floor, is it dirt or poured concrete? I would assume it is not insulated nor would it have a vapor barrier, so just doing a vapor barrier itself puts you halfway to a passive radon stack, in that 6 mil poly vapor barriers are standard fare for radon barriers.
For homes in very high risk areas the more prudent builders may use a radon block membrane for added protection, but at the least a 6 mil poly will go a very long way.
The thing is, as you realize, it is virtually impossible to know ahead of time if a leaky house, or an empty lot where a house will soon sit, will have high radon levels. So best is simply to run with the assumption that it will and put in a membrane. You can see our page here on how to renovate basements so they won't develop mold, that will show you how to insulate a floor and install a radon barrier membrane at the same time.
I hope that helps, feel free to ask additional questions with a more details – current state of basement (stone, block or concrete foundation), ceiling height, if you intend to finish it as living space, and even the climate zone you live in, all this will help better determine what your best path forward is for a healthy and energy efficient home, but an affordably built one too!
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